Southern Gifts

There have been a couple good swells from the South this summer already but the internets were buzzing about the swell hitting this morning.

The alarm went off at 3:30am. I turned the coffee pot on as I loaded up the rig with my boards, wetsuit, hot water bottle for the after session shower, and a banana. Drove up past the popular Northern LA breaks which already had a couple of cars lining the PCH. What? Already! I was luckily the first car to arrive at another spot around 4:30, twilight (the time at which the darkness starts creeping to light) is at 4:37. Perfect. Suit up as fast as I could, made the long walk down to the water and enjoy solitude and good 20 sec energy. Not as big as it was supposed to be but had good shape. Pick of several long rides until the masses show up, frothing and wanting to see if the hype is real.

Also found this seashell, a cowrie, that washed up on the high tide this morning. I couldn't believe it. It was the same kind of shell an old girlfriend gave me after she got back from Cabo. You never find these shells around these parts. They are usually found in tropical locations. This swell originated in New Zealand and I guess the cowrie came along for the ride. Think how many nautical miles this little cowrie saw before being pumped up onto a shore in Los Angeles!

Surfed for 3 hours, and now I am sitting at work satiated and stoked! Swell should be growing so get out there and sliiide!

The Dead Milkmen "Beach Song"
Steel Pulse "Man No Sober"