Friday, August 11, 2006


This picture from Malibu the other morning says it all. How would you like to surf? A fat surfer on a longboard just standing on the wave? Or a surfer on a fish flying down the wave face and whacking the lip?

Both boards are made for small waves. But only one board is made for fun.

The style originated in the late 60's/early 70's down in LaJolla outside of San Diego. Skip Frye, Steve Lis, Larry Mabile, on and on, all tripped out the masses with their litle sub 6 foot boards with two long, keel fins. With their extra large thickness and wide points, they could get into the wave just as early as the others with 10 foot boards. And go faster. And quicker. And with their two long fins and deep split tail, they could be turned on a dime. Making even the smallest waves enjoyable. Fish are even fun if it is a 5'6" pink foam board.

They have enjoyed a little revolution over the last couple of years. Maybe it is the whole retro 70's thing that is going around, maybe it is just because they look cool. Either way, they rip.

Mandala, KG and some others make super nice versions of them now. Or, even better, just grab a blank and shape your own. Live the soul.

But you'll probably just keep on using your 9 foot board, needing your paddling crutch, standing in a stink bug stance trying to turn the huge board, and not move until the wave dies. Fun?

Weezer "Keep Fishin'"
Fishbone "Bonin' in the Boneyard"


Blogger reverb said...

...and is better to change 2 keels for a more small arc approach ...4 fins

Sunday, August 13, 2006  

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